The Lewes Arms

Mid-day Thursday, and we’re back in the Lewes Arms for lunch, for the first time in nearly six months. We’re here to eat, but all attention is on the Harveys, back on tap today after a 140-day lay-off. The place isn’t packed, but there is a healthy smattering of locals, some of whom have clearly been here since 11am, when the pub’s opened its doors. Some of them are drinking in Harveys-branded pint glasses, specially brought in for the occasion. The mood is one of hilarity. When my pint arrives I savour the first gulp. It’s a good pint; it’s settled well after its long break. That slightly salty taste the Ouse water gives it, which makes Harveys drinkers loath to order other brands.

I choose to accompany my pint with sausage and mash, but I’m warned that this will take twenty minutes to arrive, and it coincides instead with number two. Three large sausages sit on a bed of mash in a moat of dark, dark gravy. The process goes like this. Cut a bit of sausage, scoop some mash and gravy on top, knife on a smidgin of mustard, eat, savour, take a gulp of Harveys, gulp, savour. Start all over again. Halfway through, we realise that the portrait of the Queen, a fixture on the back-bar wall since anyone can remember, is missing. Have Greene King abolished the monarchy? Does their new-found acquiescence to people-power know no bounds? We ask, and find out the picture’s at the framers being mended. Crisis over. It’s good to be back. AL

Bangers and mash, and a pint of H. But where’s the Queen?
Mount Place
When? Food served daily12-3pm, 5-8pm
How Much? £5.45 for bangers and mash
(t) 01273 473152