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Occasionally the desire to patronise a locally-run lunch place is overtaken by the ungetriddable image of a pizza in my head. And walking down the High Street with a my brother, trying to remember which Lewes pubs offer an al fresco possibility in a rare period of sunshine, we can’t get past Prezzo without walking in the door to check out the menu. And the smell of the dough browning in a wood-fired oven is enough to seal the deal. We walk through to the terrace at the back and find a seat with sunshine (me) and shade (him) without any problem.

The pizza image turns into a calzone one when I see the menu. It’s the same deal, really, just that the base has been rolled up into a giant Cornish pasty shape. I go for the ‘carne piccante’ option with chicken, meatballs, mushrooms, cheese and crushed chillies in a Bolognese sauce. It arrives with a side salad and a boat of tomato salsa to pour over the top. It’s a pity to deflate it (there’s quite a lot of hot air inside, too) but my first mouthful - a lump of chicken wedged in the corner of the crust - makes it all worthwhile. My brother is the fastest eater in East Sussex (his pollo siciliana [sic] and side salad lasts him about three minutes) but I’ve ceased to try to emulate him, and I enjoy luxuriating over the taste. There are over 80 Prezzo restaurants in the South of England, so I’m not lining local pockets. Too bad. Sometimes you can’t beat a taste that’s been designed to please the masses. AL

When the moon hits your eye, like a big pizza pie, that’s amore

173, High St
When? 12pm-11.30pm daily
How Much? £8.50 for a calzone
(t) 01273 472179